The selection spirits of Molecule belong to the niche British perfumery Escentric Molecules brand. Their creator, the German perfumer of Geza Schoen, not only surprises with stylish and incomprehensible aromas, but also frankly intrigues and shocks, causing squall of emotions. Each composition is so unusual and mysterious that skilled experts cannot distinguish its components even.
During era of general love for all natural when the mainstream of the perfumery world is directed to the area natural, emergence of completely chemically synthesized spirits looks as time call. The idea to carry on itself as spirits single synthetic components became unexpectedly popular. The fact is that their aroma is capable to reveal on skin of the person a little differently, than at habitual spirits. Similar perfume does not impose themselves, and completely adapts to your skin and therefore is not felt is foreign.
The uniqueness gives to aromas of Escentric Molecules special synthetic component – artificially created molecule. Completely transferring natural smell of ingredients, the molecule transforms them in such a way that all components, merging together, give rise to new, unique image. Thanks to innovations Geza Shoyona there were spirits which have changed our understanding that the rose smells of rose though rose call it though is not present.
The concept of fragrant products of the range Escentric Molecules means acquaintance to perfumery material in pure original state ‒ it is spirit solution of lonely molecule (fragrant substance, ingredient) which already in itself is composition and has many-sided smell. In tandem with Molecule there is Escentric, minimalistic composition on key component containing 65% of basic molecule. Molecule perfume is triumph of one synthetic component. In Clown the basic note is seasoned with chord from various additives (flowers, pitches, fruit), spirits already are multicomponent.
What molecules smell of
The term molecule in perfumery means quite abstract composition which is not trying to imitate certain, well familiar natural smells. It is made mainly of synthetic components. Bonus investment of molecule with some additional functions on skin not goes ‒ to reveal as usual spirits; to have ability to appear, to disappear; to enhance appeal and to wake up erotic feelings; to depend on mood, climatic conditions, body temperature, season, etc. There is synergy effect when composition components are aggregated and create aroma aura. The smell is hardly noticeable, it merges with skin and refreshes at the same time.
By words Geza Shoyona, Molecule has begun with the simple idea that the person does not want to carry others smell. This thought has come to its mind on joint of 70th and 80th when aromas were too heavy, and some people ceased to use spirits. The decision – to create perfume which can be applied daily, and to make so that at the same time the aroma did not bother has been made. And still the German chemist has wanted to show beauty and the importance for perfumery of some synthetic materials. These are man-made components which already in itself have many-sided smell. At the heart of fragrant products under the name of Escentric Molecules ‒ 4 chemical compounds: Izo-E-Super, Ambroksan, Vetiverilatselat, Yavanol.
Short characteristic of isomers ‒ participants of games of molecules auras and formulas am eccentric is as follows:
- Iso E Super has the dry wood aroma which is bearing a faint resemblance to cedar with small amber and phenolic aspect. It is possible to feel notes of sandal-wood tree and juniper with moss impurity. Smell of this substance transparent, diffusion, not having loop and initial notes. It creates feeling of naturalness of the aroma proceeding from your body and there can be that, disappear. The velvety, kokoniruyushchy effect is inherent in component. Izo-E-Super have hypnotic character comparable with effect of aphrodisiacs, pheromones and light narcotic substances. It is excellent florizator. It is called the smell having soul.
- Ambroxane possesses the characteristic sweetish smell of gray ambergris reminding old paper and cardboard. In aromatic bouquet along with saltish leather notes it is possible to mark out musky nuances, aspects of greens, tea, rockrose, nuts. Noble, graceful aroma with fresh mineral notes. Ambroksan gives to smell original and irresistible wood and musky shade and on each skin sounds differently.
- Vetiveryl acetate smells of wood and leather, has earthy and radicular and grassy shade. Warm aroma, spicy, slightly bitterish, with powdery notes and delicate perfume of flowers of tobacco and rose. About the help of vetiver create the long continuous loop of spirits weaved from noble warm notes of sandal-wood tree, cedar and musk. The aroma reveals on skin of the person fan of wood shades: from peanuts and pitch, to animalistic and vegetable. Vetiveryl acetate excites consciousness of the person, fills it with energy and also emphasizes sensual component.
- Javanol is characterized by the many-sided aroma which is close reminding sandalwood with its freshness and creamy lactescence. Besides amazing firmness, substance has such qualities as diffusion and substantivity. Yavanol contains notes of tropical fruit, light metal and flower nuances It the liquid metal peel of grapefruit which is poured out over bed from velvety roses of cream color.
Because of work with so complex and abstract compositions of Escentric Molecules often call brand of anti-aromas. According to statement Geza Shoyona, in 95% of the created aromas he uses Iso E Super as he recognizes this component optimum on ratio price/firmness/force of aroma. At the heart of all options of spirits ‒ wood notes which he considers the brightest and independent in the world of perfumery.
In line of Escentric Molecules perfume four binary couples which have left within decade:
- Molecule 01 and Escentric 01 (2006)
- Molecule 02 and Escentric 02 (2008)
- Molecule 03 and Escentric 03 (2010)
- Molecule 04 and Escentric 04 (2017)
The spirits offered on sale at numbers 05 and 8 are analog product. There are no original spirits with such marking.
Molecule perfume ‒ is triumph of radical minimalism. Everyone contains only one, clean aroma-molecule, without additional odorants. Spirits of the Escentric series multicomponent, their formula strengthens sounding of basic molecule other notes, allocating and supplementing them. The collection belongs to the category unisex. Spirits spread in bottles with a capacity of 100 and 30 milliliters. In addition to spirits the company produces shower gels with the corresponding aroma.
Distinctive feature of niche Escentric Molecules perfume is the design of bottle. First of all, it is laconic rectangular shape and lack of cover. At traditional look, bottle without cap looks goal and it is sad. But creators claim that the cover hides and limits, and without it spray calls for action. The minimalism in registration emphasizes use of the binary code. Figures 1 and 0 when decoding develop in letters: m ‒ for molecules, e ‒ for escentric.
The company has series of projects on consciousness of the selection perfumery.
- The work with designers Brian Kirkbi and Zooey Brouch from Boudikka begun in 2001 has led to creation of incredibly individual aroma of uniseksovy composition for this fashion British brand. The scandalous composition of Boudicca Wode which was born in 2008 is allocated with wild brutal aroma and pleasant fuzherny melodies.
- The Great Mind series has been begun 2009. So far in The Beautiful Mind Series ‒ two aromas unisex glorifying mind, intelligence and creativity of the famous women recreating their persons. Volume 1: Intelligence & Fantasy (2010) is devoted to the owner of unique memory and phenomenal abilities, the German chess player Christian Stenger. Muse for Volume 2: Precision and Grace (2015) became the famous ballerina Polina Semyonova. Her grace, ease and mathematical accuracy of movements have been dressed in the corresponding smell. The female astronaut will become the heroine of the third aroma of The Beautiful Mind Series, most likely.
- Year of the 2012th has been marked by two selection aromas of Escentric Molecule. Ambiguous, bright life of star of the German and Polish cinema of Claus Kinsky has served as inspiration during creation of very difficult, beautifully revealing smell. Kinski by right has deserved recognition of many stylish men and women. Real perfume with aroma of the svezhenapechatanny newspaper and new book for which the corresponding design has been developed became gift to bibliophiles. Wallpaper Paper Passion has appeared as a result of conceptual cooperation with the fashionable magazine. The sonorous name Paper Passion speaks for itself. It is smell which has unusual iridescent loop and attracts creative, intellectual people.
- Project Renegades has been started in 2016. Geza Shoyon with colleagues perfumers Mark Buxton and Bertrán Dyushofuro have provided three aromas, each of which reflects preferences of the author (chypre, spicy and east). Spirits are poured in exclusive bottles. What will win such cooperation of pioneers of niche perfumery ‒ against rivalry of professionals or friendship of colleagues ‒ will show time.
The best goods of brand
Very few people know that else will be thought up in experimental laboratory Escentric Molecules to fill up collection of unusual aromas (thawed snow and ocean breeze, polygraphy and ink, theatrical make-up and powder). For now on the world molecules and the clowns positioned by creators as tandem of science and art solemnly stride:
- binary couple 01 it is intended for judges of elegance and restraint, rationalists and business people;
- 02 – attribute of sensual natures which wish to emphasize the sexual appeal;
- charismatic and basic people are suited molecule and the clown 03;
- target audience of perfume 04 series ‒ puritans and minimalists;
- ostalny the selection aromas – too, as they say, on the fan.
v whole ‒ it is perfume for those who are not afraid to stand out from the crowd. By means of aromas of Escentric Molecules it is possible to declare brightly style, image and the concept of life, to receive new olfactory impressions and emotions, to leave from traditions and to test something new.
As for rating estimates, at the moment the list of the most demanded aromas Escentric Molecules includes 7 positions. Collection hits — Molecule 02 and Molecule 01. The peak of demand at buyers is the share of this two perfume. Though periodically the superiority in ratings changes. And in general, columnists and judges of perfume give preference to Molecule 01, and butibloger note popularity among consumers and parfyumogolik of the second molecule. Further the aroma of Kinski follows. At places with 4 on 7 were consistently: Escentric 03, the first aroma from the Great Mind series ‒ Intelligence & Fantasy, Molecule 04 and Paper passion (Wallpaper Paper Passion).
Basis of aromas of Escentric Molecules
History of nonexistent molecule in the nature which has become innovation in perfumery has begun in the sixties the 20th centuries. In 1973 in the IFF company has been created izotsiklemon E. Its improved option has appeared in 1990. Izo-E-Super is base and common denominator of the majority of aromas of experimental laboratory Escentric Molecules. The synthetic component has well proved in various perfumery genres (especially in men's wood and aromatic compositions). Its use has been appropriately regulated. According to the last recommendations of the International association about the aromatic substances IFRA, in final composition of perfume the level of presence of the molecule ISO E Super should not exceed 21.4%.
Wide use in the perfumery industry of synthetic molecules is somewhat comparable with opening and application in the food industry of the fifth taste (minds). Many experts are inclined to consider that behind molecule – the future of perfumery.